it's december?!

When did that happen?! No seriously. I'm confused.

I have 2 weeks left of my Asia Adventure, which I'm finding very hard to believe. I'm not sure which feeling is more dominant- my excitement to go home, or my sadness that my travels are coming to an end. But, as my sister reminded me, the world will always be there, and I can always frolic around it again. With that in mind, I'm trying to focus on getting home, centering my thoughts on how lovely it will be to cuddle & hide in blankets, to hug my parents, to be in the same country as my boyfriend, to drink tea without sweating profusely afterward (my sweat smelled like green tea sometimes, it was weird). I have a lot to miss in Asia, but I also have a lot to look forward to & embrace again in the US.

I still can't believe it's been 3 months. On one hand, I feel like I've been here forever. On the other, I look back & feel that it all blurred by too fast. Time becomes a funny thing as you get older. It's no longer just a unit of measurement, but it also becomes something more abstract, more like a feeling. Hours can feel like days when you're waiting, but melt into seconds during an engaging conversation (truth: Alex & I Skyped for 5 hours once without even realizing it. Good thing it's freeeee). Months can stretch for decades while in grade school, but rush past at college graduation. While planners become increasingly more important with age, the events & functions scribbled into them become more defined by this abstract idea of time. At least that's the case for me. I used to swear by pocket calendars. I'd be caught dead without one. But now, I carry around a completely blank notebook sans boxes for dates or even lines to write on. Instead of recording events under calendar days, I journal about them. And it's not a play-by-play, broken down to the exact minute. Instead it's a written memory of observations & feelings that happened on that date, during that time.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaand I'm not making any sense. I really should stop trying to write these thoughtful entries. I always just end up talking nonsense. Lewis Carrol would probably be a fan, though. Or a 6 year old.

Well, I should be leaving for my flight soon anyway. Time for my last island hopping adventures in the Philippines: Cebu & Bohol! Happy December, everyone. <3

so, about 6 more people in the world have seen me naked.

And I got my butt slapped. And at one point I was blindfolded. No, I wasn't at an orgy or a Marilyn Manson concert (1. I've heard of much worse happening at those shows. 2. Marilyn Manson in the Philippines... that thought just tickles me.). I went to a spa! I'd never been to one before, & upon hearing that, my scandalized Aunt insisted on treating me for a day. Um, AWESOME? I love this woman.

With one of her good friends, Chi Chi, we headed to Antipolo City in the Rizal Province, just east of Manila. The car ride was long-ish because of crawling holiday traffic. (It usually starts in early November here and the large number of cars plus the free-for-all style of driving in the Philippines makes the streets positively frustrating. Think Los Anglese traffic during rush hour. Without lanes.) The spa was quaint & small but efficiently equipped within the limited space. It smelled like tanglad & sweet spices, which had an immediate calming effect on me. We signed up for a package that, for just $23, included a hydro massage, sauna, jacuzzi, black mud wrap, foot spa treatment, full body massage, manicure & pedicure. Pretty awesome, no? All that for $23 is pretty unheard of in the States!

I learned a couple things while at the spa: I'm more ticklish on one side of my body than the other (not telling which side, which is not meant as an invitation to experiment), I have 2 HUGE knots in my back, & foot spa treatments are TOTALLY necessary for life. So, yea. My first experience at a spa was pretty good. My Aunt said she's been to better spas, but as I have no basis for comparison, I remain satisfied. Yay, pampering!

back to tarlac.

Being in the house where my mother grew up is pretty surreal. It has changed a lot since she lived there as a girl, but I still like roaming its halls & the surrounding land, wondering if my mom had walked where I was walking, what she had been doing, what she was thinking. Did she know that one day she’d be living in the United States? That she’d get married & have two daughters? That she’d have a successful career in Special Education, in spite of her college studies in Biology & Fisheries? If my mom had stayed in the Philippines, I wonder if she would have been a biologist instead, wearing lab coats and doing research behind goggles & microscopes.

I also often wonder, especially now, being here, how different my life would have been had my parents decided to stay in the Philippines. I’m sure I would have been just as happy in the context of that life, but as someone who has grown up in the western world it’s admittedly a difficult thing to imagine. Don’t get me wrong. I do love and appreciate the life & culture here very much. There’s a happy simplicity to it that I am yet to encounter anywhere else. It’s just that western traditions & life have left such a deep impression in my mind & I don’t think I could ever completely be rid of it. It invites constant comparisons & longing for the States, which is not necessarily because things are better in the west (there are pros and cons for both places) but because of the simple fact that it’s what I grew up with, it’s what I know.

Being in Tarlac again, looking around I realized that this is what my mother grew up with, this is what she knew. And still knows, really. After all these years living in the states, the house still sparks her memory & she can recall moments from her childhood with startling clarity as if she were reliving them. And I guess in a way she is. Last December, our entire extended family (save for one first cousin- LAME FRED!) traveled to the Philippines, all reunited for the first time EVER. I spent a lot of my first day in Tarlac with my mom, walking around with her, listening to stories & memories. She would point to something and tell me what it used to look like before, or a room would inspire a story about my grandfather and his black, thick-framed glasses. As she did this, I could see her as a child and a young woman. & I think she could see that too, for she would occasionally lapse into thoughtful silences with a faraway look on her face.

The property used to be a poultry farm and the wooden skeletons of coops still linger. They’re now used as storage & shelves for potted herbs & plants, as my Auntie Wena has recently opened a quaint garden café called Good Earth, accordingly transforming the property into a dining area, kitchen, vegetable garden, & green house. It’s a darling eatery with a relaxing & welcoming atmosphere. All the dishes are prepared with fresh, organically grown ingredients, some of which are gathered right from the garden. I got to sample their best selling dishes, including tanglad chicken, pineapple-basil smoothie, focaccia bread, and a pan of freshly baked pizza. It was all absolutely delicious! But what I really love about this restaurant, in addition to the food of course, is how much of a family collaborative effort it’s been and continues to be. All of the sisters have contributed to it, whether financially, creatively, physically, or all of the above. & all with so much love & support! I love being a part of this family!

rewind: studio ghibli museum!

Before leaving for Japan, I made a to do list: eat sushi, try miso ramen, stuff my face with mochi... Yea, a lot of it was, unsurprisingly, food-related. But one item that was not, and was actually underlined, written in bold caps, and surrounded by stars & exclamation points, was visiting the Studio Ghibli Museum!

Studio Ghibli is a delightful & innovative animation studio, founded by Hayao Miyazaki, Isao Takahata & Toshio Suzuki in 1985. With strong backgrounds in the animation industry, and after the success of the AWESOME film Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, the three men collaborated to create THE GREATEST STUDIO OF ALL TIME, unaware of how it would shape & heavily influence the industry in Japan, as well as animation abroad in the future. Ghibli has a more than impressive resume of films, wowing audiences of children & adults alike with such titles as Castle in the Sky, My Neighbor Totoro, Princess Mononoke, Ponyo, & most popularly Spirited Away. The later film was the western world's first real introduction to Studio Ghibli thanks to Walt Disney Studios (I really think that John Lasseter has a crush on Miyazaki, btw), & it also won the 2002 Oscar for Best Animated Feature. BAM.

In addition to their unique approach to design & animation, the studio has also become well known for their stories. They "often incorporate recurrent themes, such as humanity's relationship to nature and technology, and the difficulty of maintaining a pacifist ethic. Reflecting Miyazaki's feminism, the protagonists of his films are often strong, independent girls or young women. While two of his films, The Castle of Cagliostro and Castle in the Sky, involve traditional villains, his other films such as Nausicaä or Princess Mononoke present morally ambiguous antagonists with redeeming qualities" (Wikipedia). (Yea, I thought they put it best.)

& fun fact re: the name: "Ghibli is based on the Arabic name for the sirocco, or Mediterranean wind, which the Italians used for their Saharan scouting planes in World War II, the idea being that the studio would blow a new wind through the Japanese anime industry" (Wikipedia). (Have you noticed that I LOVE Wikipedia?)

They opened up a museum in 2001 in Mitaka Inokashira Park, and I was DETERMINED to go. And I did! Unfortunately, photography of any kind was not allowed in the museum, so I can't share photos. But, in the end, I liked it better that way for my personal experience. As their website says, "The Ghibli Museum is a portal to a storybook world. As the main character in a story, we ask that you experience the Museum space with your own eyes and senses, instead of through a camera's viewfinder. We ask that you make what you experienced in the Museum the special memory that you take home with you." Have I mentioned that I LOVE THEM?

The museum was beyond excellent! Near the main entrance was a ginormous Totoro sitting behind a ticket booth window! & approaching it, I could hear little voices swooning & excitedly exclaiming “Kawaii!” ("Cute!”). Most of the visitors were kids, & I counted myself among them, feeling like a child at heart as I all but frolicked into the museum. It looked almost colonial with wood paneling, metal-gated staircases & diamond-paned windows. The lively & colorful exhibit pieces stood out wonderfully against this historic propriety (such as the brilliant stained glass window on the ceiling, which was a detailed mosaic of Studio Ghibli characters!). The exhibits encouraged visitor interaction & imagination- it wasn’t about looking & observing, but it was about experiencing & being a part of the studio and the animation process. They had intricate contraptions of whirling wheels & gears that showed how 35 mm film became a movie; replicas of animator desks covered with whittled down pencils, watercolor drafts & sketches; walls covered with design concepts, postcards, magazine cut outs and various odds & ends (like a mounted moose head, model airplanes, & empty ornate picture frames) used for inspiration; giant hand-crank flip books; etc. There was so much to see & do! I wandered from room to room, overwhelmed with delight & increasing love for the studio.

I really believe that everyone should experience the museum! That said, I don’t want to spoil it by writing too much. It really was such a magical place, where youth & child-like awe is restored, even for the grumpiest & most brittle person.

P.s. I saw Charlotte Gainsbourg there with her kids! Celebrity sighting in Japan. In the Studio Ghibli Museum. DOUBLE COOL.

thanksgiving!

So, Thanksgiving may be a nonexistent holiday in Asia, and my final Thursday of November will be without sweet potatoes, silly family feuds & pumpkin pie (with a large dollop of whipped cream!), but I can and still want to give thanks. Particularly this past year, I have a lot to be thankful for. Too much, really. Here's a short list, in no particular order:

1. Cartwheels. They're happy and I have great memories associated with doing them.
2. Good pens. There really is nothing like a good pen. I'm a nerd.
3. Colors. I've discovered so many new colors abroad, colors I never knew existed! They're all amazing & have given me a greater appreciation for nature.
4. Engaging conversations. Because they're a whole lot better than boring ones. And learning more about a person, getting to know someone is the best.
5. Whirlwind adventures. Self explanatory.
6. Loved ones. I LOVE ALL OF YOU.
7. The Internet. I LOVE ALL OF IT.
8. Languages. Communication is a beautiful thing. Common language & understanding is something that I've taken for granted for many years. Language barriers have been quite the obstacle over the past few months. But, what I once found daunting & isolating, I now find fascinating & wonderful. Different languages, even if I don't understand them, are amazing.
9. Creativity. Creativity will always be at the top of my list. Symphonies, novels, photographs, knitted scarves... people are creating such lovely things everyday, all the time! The world couldn't function without it!
10. Bicycles. My bike is the one material thing that I miss the most back in the States. Biking everywhere, everyday in the Bronx was the greatest!

So those are a few of them. What are you thankful for?

rewind: japanese cities.

Yea, I have no excuses anymore. I really have no idea why I can’t bring myself to write about Japan. Whenever I sit down to do it, I think of something else to do, preferring that over the former. It’s not due to dislike of the country, because I genuinely did love Japan (although I ultimately decided that I could never live there for an extended period of time, I'll explain later), and I’m not too busy to write, because I’ve posted plenty of times since then… I really think it’s just laziness. So, here’s me trying to tackle that laziness to finally share with you more of my experiences in Japan.

So, to continue with the lists, below are all the cities that I visited. My aunt was the master brain (I guess the correct term is “mastermind” but I like using the word brain whenever I can) behind the whole trip, responsible for scheduling & booking EVERYTHING. Mad props to her! We visited more cities than I thought was humanly possible over 8 days. I suppose Japan isn’t the biggest country, but still. Read on and be impressed & jealous of our travels all over Japan!

1. Osaka. is the third largest city in Japan and is known as the commercial/economic center of Japan as well as its "kitchen" for gourmet food. We didn't explore Osaka too much, though; it really just acted as our travel hub for the first couple days. So, I became very familiar with the early morning & evening activity of the city. It was always a vision of businessmen & suits. They all looked quite dapper, speeding off with purpose in quick strides. I always became so aware of my current unemployment & youth in Osaka, surrounded by all those professionals.

2. Kyoto. We did a lot of sightseeing in Kyoto on our second day! First, we went to Nijo Castle. It was built starting in 1601 as a residence for the Tokugawa Shoguns. It consists of several chambers, all of which were modestly but elegantly decorated with delicate wood carvings, fine panel paintings, & shining gold leaf accents. The floors, called "nightingale floors," were designed to squeak when walked upon, a precaution against potential intruders & attackers. The surrounding gardens were beautiful, designed by a famous landscape artist Kobori Enshu. We also went to the International Manga Museum, which had an impressively large collection of volumes, spanning several decades & covering a wide range of titles. I particularly liked, though, that they sold sheets of cake & small tubes of chocolate frosting for guests to draw on & decorate. Yummy & creative! Double win! We then hopped over to Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion, so named because, you guessed it, it's golden! We got there just as evening was beginning to fall, and the blushing sky was wonderfully reflected in the lake. Across the water, the pavilion looked positively regal, standing out against the greenery of the surrounding gardens. We finally ended the day in the Gion District. It was one of the most famous Geisha districts in Japan. Not to be confused with a red-light district, the Geisha houses here were purely for entertainment, eg. traditional Japanese dancing, singing, etc. Now, it's a popular strip of shops. The buildings & streets remain preserved for the most part in their historical glory on the outside, with the addition of bright white lanterns lining the road. But the interiors have changed to accommodate candy shops, mochi vendors, & modern tea houses. We walked along here for a while, buying snacks & souvenirs, before giving in to weariness & heading back to the hotel.

3. Miyajima Island. Located in the city of Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima, we went here on our third day to see the Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (& to feast on Okonomiyaki, much to Auntie Wawie's excitement.) We took a ferry (yay boats!) to get there, watching men harvest pearls and admiring the famous bright red gateway of the shrine, which in the distance seemed to float in the high tide. Once on the island, we were accosted by deer. No joke. They roam freely in the area & they were everywhere- lounging in shady patches, nuzzling babies in strollers, trying to eat your city map... It was pretty awesome, but admittedly strange to be able to pet them as you would a puppy or cat. We walked along the coastline, which was lined with small shops & eateries, to the shrine. Itsukushima was a series of wooden piers and structures, painted warm orange with white accents. It was all built on the water because, historically, the island was considered so sacred that people were barred from setting foot on it, instead only allowed to approach by boat. It was all in all a very lovely place, my favorite part being all the paper fortunes folded & tied everywhere, creating a strange, white ivy weaving throughout. Leaving the shrine, we later explored the surrounding market area, where I bought a cone of the most delicious green tea fro-yo that I've ever had. Win.

4. Shirakawa-go. Easily my favorite place in Japan! It's a small, historical, rural village (another UNESCO World Heritage Site) in the Shogawa river valley, tucked in the northern mountains. To get there, we took a 4 hour train ride, most of which I spent glued to my window, staring at the passing scenery. I don’t know if I’ve made this clear enough, but I LOVE long trips through raw landscapes, next to a window. My eyes glazed over as cities shrank to towns, towns to villages, villages to farmland & finally farmland to wilderness. The train cut through mountains & valleys, and I could spot mumbles of fall in the changing leaves of trees. After frolicking in tropical countries where fall is nonexistent, my heart cartwheeled seeing the warm colors of my favorite season. After tunneling through a particularly long mountain passage, we arrived at the village. I felt like Lucy walking through the seemingly innocent wardrobe, then discovering the wonderful, fantastical world of Narnia. (Only, no fauns/James McAvoy.) The village was unlike anything I’ve ever seen, and I spent most of my time there staring in awe & amazement, wondering mentally & aloud, “Is this REAL?!” The houses are constructed in an architectural style called gasshō-zukuri or "prayer-hands construction." They are so named as the steep slant of the thatched roofs resemble two praying hands pressed at the fingertips. The whole village looked & felt like a prayer, really- bright wild flowers grew along pathways; rice fields & vegetable gardens lay spread like a patchwork quilt of agriculture; darling trees offered musical rustlings of wind brushing against their changing leaves; small streams branched off & and ran everywhere, babbling & laughing; & the air tickled my nose with its chill & autumnal sweetness. It was wonderful & I promised myself that I would come back with my family.

5. Yokohama. is the second largest city in Japan in population. Historically, it was a simple fishing village. It became a major port city of trade in the mid 1880s, when the western world demanded that Japan end its national seclusion & engage in international commerce. The city then experienced alternating periods of great economic & industrial growth, and devastating set backs that came in the forms of the Great Kantō earthquake & World War II. Now, it is a lovely city, with much to entertain! We spent a whole day there, walking around & exploring. We went to/saw the historic port area Kannai; Yamashita Park; the tallest inland lighthouse in the world; Yokohama Chinatown (they had a TON of panda-related merchandise here. Even the steamed buns were made to look like pandas!); Harbor View Park (had a delightful rose garden!); Landmark tower, the tallest building in Japan; the Cosmo Clock 21, which is actually a huge Ferris wheel; etc. Yea. Yokohama was pretty awesome.

The last major city that I have to write about is Tokyo, but I think it deserves its own post. That and I'm getting really tired. Haaa. Gnight, world! And Happy Thanksgiving, America!

don't go chasing waterfalls.

Please stick to the rivers and the lakes like you used to! That's right, I just referenced a TLC song. Whu-whaaaaat! It was just too appropriate because it mentions waterfalls, which I will write about to finish off Dumaguete!

So, continuing from my last post... before leaving the lakes, Sam & I stumbled into another traveler named Charina. Charina is a cheerful & bubbly Filipina-Canadian that has been traveling for the past 10 months all over the world- super cool. We chatted amiably for a spell & parted ways after exchanging contact info and promising to meet up later for dinner & drinks.

Sam & I continued on to Casaroro Falls, in the neighboring town Valencia. I thought it darling. It was heavily shaded by many trees, and was much quieter than Dumaguete, with more pedestrians than tricycle taxis. We flagged down two habal habals (carpooling may have been better for the environment but... it really wasn't that comfortable, particularly with the bumpy road) and sped off towards the mountains. This ride was positively TERRIFYING. And painful. It's a wonder that I didn't score tons of bruises on my poor butt. It was REAL off-road motorbiking, and I felt extremely exposed & vulnerable with my shorts, sandals and un-helmet-ed head. It was with great thankfulness, 20 minutes later, that we dismounted, laughing at how ridiculously uncomfortable the ride had been.

To get to the waterfall, we walked down about 370 concrete steps that zigged & zagged, following a natural slope deep into a valley. As we got lower, the trees became more densely packed, creating a tightly woven canopy. In the darker lighting, the shades of green & brown were bolder & deeper and I felt transported to another world entirely. Finally getting to the bottom, several hundred feet below, the path continued along a stream, and we traced it to its source. The waterfall was BREATHTAKING. Wanting to get a closer look, we abandoned the path and navigated through moss-covered stones & gravel into the stream. We sat on a rock in the middle of the lazy current and stared, amazed by nature. Upon Sam's suggestion, I let my eyes start at the top of the fall & descend with the water- it was hypnotizing and I suggest you try it! A soft mist hung in the air, and my ears were filled with the sound of rushing water. I dipped my feet in, and for the second time that day wished desperately that I knew how to swim.

When we got back to Dumaguete, I took Sam to Sans Rival Bakery, as she had a sweet tooth to rival mine (which is saying something). I went to Sans Rival at least once a day, every day. Yes, it was THAT good. The servers probably thought I was the biggest & saddest fatty ever because I usually sat alone in the front window, writing & eating at least three different pastries and/or cake slices. Well, I wouldn't argue with them over being the biggest fatty, but I was NEVER sad. Bina + sweets = THE HAPPIEST. And I was even happier to spread this love of desserts to Sam, who was very appreciative. We allowed ourselves to indulge in a few yums (I had a slice of concorde cake & a chocolate chip cheesecake cupcake- I DIED), justifying the consumption by recalling all the exercise & activity we'd done that day.

After dessert, we got dinner & drinks with Charina. (And by the way, I decided that eating dessert first is how I will live from now on!) We went to a place called the Blue Monkey Grill, popular with locals & tourists alike. Grabbing a picnic table outside, we chatted about our travels and lives over Filipino food & beers. It's amazing how easily conversation flows between fellow travelers. You're strangers to each other and yet you never seem to hit the awkward/shy/over-polite stage of getting-to-know-you that comes standard with most new relationships. You just kind of jump right in, and usually the conversation will feel the way it does between old friends, catching up after a long separation. I absolutely love and treasure these conversations & relationships, no matter how temporary and short they are. They're always so lovely and remind me that good people can always be found everywhere.

The rest of my stay was pretty low key, full of beach-bumming, shell-searching, horizon-watching, cake-eating, park-reading, not-sleeping, etc. Oh! Except for a huge parade that I got swept into! Everyone wore brightly colored costumes & danced to sweet percussion beats. The streets were filled with people, all laughing & clapping & swaying with the performers. It was awesome to see Dumaguete so lively & excited about their culture!

So yes, Dumaguete was rad. And I will totally go back there if I ever get the chance. And I will eat more cake.

maguindanao massacre.

Falling back into my daily routine in Makati, I switched on the BBC after eating breakfast. One of the main headlines was actually about the Philippines, which is pretty rare. Intrigued, I turned up the volume and soon after started cringing at what I was hearing. Surprised that I hadn't heard the story until now, I decided to read more about it and to write about it, too.

A year ago today, 57 unarmed civilians were kidnapped and horribly murdered in the Maguindanao province of the Philippines. The victims were supporters of Buluan Vice Mayor Esmael Mangudadatu, and were on their way to file his certificate of candidacy for the Maguindanao governor elections in May.

The six vehicle convoy of lawyers, supporters, journalists, and relatives of the Vice Mayor was stopped en route by 100 armed men. They were kidnapped, brutally killed and buried in an isolated area. Evidence was found of beheading (in some cases by chainsaw), rape, genital mutilation, and other terrible tortures inflicted upon the victims. No one was spared. Mangudadatu's youngest sister and aunt, who were both present, were even pregnant at the time of their murders.

"This is a gruesome massacre of civilians unequalled in recent history," Jesus Dureza, Presidential Adviser for Mindanao, said in a statement. “There must be a total stop to this senseless violence and carnage." Unfortunately, such political corruption has existed in Maguindanao for a while, although never manifesting itself quite so violently until last year. The Ampatuan family, who is suspected of being responsible or at least heavily involved in the massacre, has been ruling and controlling the province as a virtual fiefdom for the past 20 years, holding almost all of the political posts in the area (read here for more information). Vice Mayor Esmael Mangudadatu, who hails from another influential clan, was a threat to this domination when he announced his desired candidacy for provincial governor, and he was plagued by hostage and death threats, which materialized in the massacre.

“Taking hostage someone about to file a certificate of candidacy is, by itself, a brazen challenge to efforts to strengthen our admittedly fragile democracy. And, if true that a local government official and a police officer are involved, then it says a lot about how far government has gone to eradicate the warlord politics that continues to reign over many of our provinces, very often the poorest and most underdeveloped," declared the National Union of Journalists of the Philippines in a statement.

Such comments on the fragility of the government in the Philippines have not been the first to be uttered and will not be the last. The poor country has been and continues to be beleaguered by corruption. From the awful Marcos regime (1965 - 1986) to today, its politics are tainted by embezzlement, bribery, violence, fraud, graft, etc. During the last 80's, the Guinness Book of Records even listed the Philippines as the most corrupt government in history. And in a 2007 survey, the Philippines was declared the most corrupt of 13 Asian countries and territories (which also included Indonesia, Thailand, Singapore, Japan and China) by 1,476 questioned expatriate executives. The Philippines scored 9.40, where a score of zero is the least corrupt and 10 is the most corrupt (BBC).

Things have improved in recent times, but it is clear that the Philippines still has a long way to go. The massacre, and the fact that even a year later that it has not been solved and justice has not been served, is evidence of that. Democracy is struggling to grow and take root in this country, but it's choked by the corruption that has infected every part of government, from the governmental bodies in the provinces like Maguindanao, to the Supreme Court, which was involved in a plagiarism scandal & handled it very, very poorly. This infection has existed for years, and it will take years to cure. The current administration under Benigno Simeon Cojuangco Aquino III has stated that they are up for the eradication of malpractices and mismanagement. Let's hope that, unlike their predecessors, they act on their words and produce positive results, steering the Philippines in the right direction.

three weeks.

That's how much time I have left in Asia. WHEN DID THAT HAPPEN?! Gahhh... Time has gone by so quickly. I'll admit that a couple weeks ago, even a few days ago, I was excitedly counting down to my departure for the States. But now, with the date fast approaching, that excitement is more often replaced with sadness &, increasingly, terror. I think I put it best in an email that I wrote to a friend: I'm about to reenter the real world and I feel like I'm graduating from college all over again. It's terrifying. I've been living an existence in zero gravity while traveling. I'm floating from place to place, and there's such a sense of short-term, temporariness with everything that I do. Decision making isn't difficult because they're all simple for the most part, like, what temple should I go to, or should I eat dinner now or in a hour? In contrast, the zero gravity that awaits me in the real world is much scarier- what job will I have, where will I live, what will my relationships be like when I get back, how will I deal with those changes? There are so many big decisions that I have to make and so much uncertainty buzzing around in my mind. I've been trying my best not to worry about it all, especially as I can't really do much about any of those things right now. But I know that they'll be waiting for me when I get home. I'll hope for the best, though!

But okay, let's write about Dumaguete! So, Dumaguete is the costal capital of Negros Island, also known as "The City of Gentle People." That might have to do with the general laid back feel of the place, which is largely a combination of college & beach town, both of which are pretty relaxed & mellow on their own. So Dumaguete is DOUBLE the relaxed & mellow. I found it to be exactly what I needed at this point in my trip. I'm admittedly getting pretty exhausted, and while hopping from city to city & getting lost in urban sprawl is exciting & fun, I'm kind of over it and they're all blending together. Call me lame, but I'd rather kick back in countrysides & smaller towns, which Dumaguete, although not physically, thankfully is in vibe & energy.

I stayed at a lively hostel, where I booked the cheapest accommodations possible- an AC-less dorm room. I've never had too much of a problem with that in the past, but I also had never stayed in Dumaguete, which got super hot & humid at night. Needless to say, going to sleep was a losing battle. Several, if not all, of my nights were spent tossing & turning while thinking about things like Keanu Reeves' acting in attempts to dull & numb my mind to sleep. But while the nights sucked, the days were lovely! I spent them relaxing at the beach, frequenting cafes, reading, writing, hiking, trekking, & staring in open-mouthed awe at mother nature at her finest.

With a fellow traveler, Sam from Atlanta (who was awesome!), I went to the famous Twin Lakes. We rode a jeepney to the nearby town Sibulan, and from there took a habal habal motorcycle ride into the southern mountains. I was initially alarmed when our driver said he would take both of us up on his motorcycle, but his bike was actually built to hold a maximum of 5 people (specifically "5 Filipinos, but only 3 Americans, hah hah haaaah!" as our driver explained)! Crazy! So with me wedged in the middle, we sped off into the mountains. As we climbed higher & higher, the temperature fell to deliciously cooler levels & humidity was nonexistent. I took deep breaths & I could feel my lungs rejoice at the sweet, fresh air. We drove through groves of mango & banana trees, & sugar cane; I could always smell them before I saw them. In contrast to the vibrant green, the sky was a brilliant blue and I forgot for a moment what storms & rain were like. We passed small villages, isolated, quiet & quaint. Children happily called out to us, waving their arms & grinning widely. Oh, it was amazing! There were some rocky portions of the ride, where the road wasn't paved, but I managed (& my butt escaped bruise-free!). It kind of gave me a feel for off-road biking, and while the experience wasn't unpleasant & actually pretty exhilarating, I would never do it again without a helmet. Or in shorts & sandals.

Half an hour later at the top, we trekked to the first lake, Balinsasayao. The water was crystal clear & sparkling, with reflections of the beautiful sky & the surrounding greenery shining on its surface. After being in cities for so long, my eyes had to readjust to the colors & brilliance of the scene, having forgotten that such colors & light exist in nature, that the world is not only composed of duller man-made hues. After relaxing there for a bit, we hiked to its twin, Danao. We followed an irregular, rocky trail along the perimeter of the first lake. It was marked with large stones pressed into the earth but in such a way that it didn't challenge the natural terrain but flowed with it. After about half an hour, we got to Danao, which was smaller but just as beautiful- clear, blue & stunning. We found a place to relax. & while Sam swam, I sat at the water's edge with my feet dipped in, writing.

Aaaand I'm getting sleepy. To be continued!

i want to live in a freezer.

After all this heat and humidity and sweating my face off in southeast Asia, a freezer sounds pretty good right now. So, who wants to be my roommate in a freezer? I promise to make it all cute & stuff with curtains and a nice coffee table. And we could have icecream ALL THE TIME (or sorbet if you're lactose intolerant). Think about it.


(Just needs a paint job and a happy mailbox! Add a front lawn and BAM. Home!)
Yea, that's pretty much all I wanted to say. Now off to explore more of Dumaguete in the (thankfully) cooler evening!

college town.

That's essentially what Dumaguete is. But it's one that goes to sleep pretty early, which is why I'm here blogging. While walking around earlier this evening, the main streets were super crowded, and getting from block to block was a dance of weaving and shimming through the dense herds of people. Then, as if there was a city-wide curfew, at 9pm everyone was gone. The disappearance of people happened so suddenly that I stood for a few minutes on a street corner, utterly confused & actually scratching the top of my head. I thought I'd walk around some more anyway, but after getting tailed by more than one creepy looking guy, I called it quits & here I am.

I like Dumaguete. It's another city that's completely walkable and there's a lively energy in the streets. My hostel is located near Silliman (I like calling it Silly-Man) University, and I walked through it to get to the main city center. I looked on as some boys tossed a frisbee in the quad and girls lounged in the grass, comparing notes. I was reminded again of my non-student status and I felt odd and kind of old, even though I graduated only a few months ago. I thought back to my awkward freshman days, cringing at memories of first college parties and interacting with upperclassmen, trying to act cool. Not that my awkward days are over. I'm still and will forever be awkward. I'm just becoming more functionally awkward.

I continued to walk down the main road, noting all the shops & malls. Christmas decorations were EVERYWHERE and I could hear Christmas carols floating out of open doors. Filipinos go craaaaazy for Christmas (& New Years- celebrating New Years here last year was ridiculous! There were so many fireworks and sparklers going off that it looked, smelled & sounded like a war zone. Just a very festive one with colored gun power). They get so pumped for it that they start with a few decorations and some carols in mid October. But once Halloween is over, anything goes- light up angels, manger scenes, neon baby Jesuses in swaddling clothes glowing bright yellow... It's really quite a sight. & I love the enthusiasm! I just wish they also celebrated Thanksgiving (not necessarily to that ferocity but at all) because that's my favorite holiday (Christmas does come in close second). While you Americans are devouring sweet potatoes & cranberry sauce and listening to skewed stories of settlers helping out brown people, I'll be eating chicken adobo, pretending with all my might that it's turkey in gravy. Anyway, back to Dumaguete.

Another great thing about this city: it's right near the ocean! I walked along the beach at sundown and it was awesome. The water was playful, and the sound of waves crashing was delightful. It was also breezy, which was refreshing after trekking around in the intense humidity & consequently sweating my face off. I really do smell like something died. Repeatedly. If only there were AC body suits. Or gigantic AC-ed hamster balls! Can you imagine human-sized hamster balls, rolling down streets and avenues? Call me childish and perhaps disoriented from walking in the heat & sun all day, but I think that sounds awesome. Okay. I need to rest. I'm talking crazy talk. Gnight, universe!

airports.

And I'm back in the airport. Some people I know loathe airports, but I love them, which I suppose is a good thing, given how often I've been in them over the past 2 months. It's such a limbo and transitional space. You're not home anymore, but you're not at your destination yet. You're waiting at some point in between. The waiting can be a nice time to think and people watch (people transform into entirely different creatures in airports! I've seen businessmen dissolve into tears upon discovering their flight was overbooked. And best friends, who were earlier gushing over how much fun they're going to have at x destination, get into heated verbal duals over who will get the window seat because, "damnit, Theresa, you always get the window! You're such an only child!"). Or it can be annoying with children screaming (I do love kids but that is not cute) for candy from the duty free, and obnoxious tourists taking flash photos in your face to remember their exciting (?) time spent at the boarding gate. Yea. Airports are interesting places.

I'm heading to Dumaguete now on the island of Negros. The only research that I've done on this place was hostel-related, so I really have no idea what to expect. Other than constant rain (yay, typhoon season!). And that I have to visit the twin lakes and go to a certain awesome restaurant, both enthusiastically suggested by my Auntie, who at this point I have learned to trust with anything travel-related.

I have a month left of my travels, which is pretty ridiculous to realize. A month left and I'm back home in the states. Weeeeeird. A month left of denial & avoidance of the real world. And then- A JOB. Ewww. I must say though, after this extended vacation, and after spending pretty much all my savings, I'm looking forward to getting into the working grind again. It's been strange not working actually, after holding down 2 jobs in college. The idleness has been and continues to be a bit unnerving. I always feel like I need to be doing something, preferably something (legally) for money. I'm sure I'll feel relieved once I get back to work. And then I'll get restless and wanderlustful again. Grass is always greener!

Okay, flight is boarding. And really, I will write about Japan.

rewind: japanese food.

Okay. After 2 weeks, I am finally writing about Japan. Due to a combination of things (I'm lazy, waaay too much happened in that country, I'm lazy, it was a while ago, I really am just the laziest) I'm going to write in the form of lists. Somehow, I feel like that's appropriate for Japan anyway, what with their love for orderliness & organization.

FOOD was a huge part of my trip in Japan. My Auntie, with whom I traveled along with 2 of her friends, is an adventurous eater, always eager to try something new & often buying things before knowing what they are. (For instance, one night she proudly tossed a package to me while announcing, "Look! Look at what I bought!" The packaging was all in Japanese characters and the picture was of a nondescript but very nice looking farm. Lacking context clues I asked her what it was. She shrugged saying she had no idea but she was going to cook it, eat it, and totally enjoy it. She's awesome.) It's really thanks to her that my international pallet expanded as much as it did. I practically owe her my first born, a country and probably a small planet for all that she did for me in Japan. Like I said, she's AWESOME. So, food:

1. Sushi. Obvi. On our last day in Japan, we got up in the wee hours of the morning (4am!) to check out the Tsukiji fish market. It's a huge market in Tokyo, famous for, among other things, the tuna auction & the delicious sushi. The tuna auction is a closed event, only open to the first 140 people that get there. We unfortunately didn't make the cut & thus did not see the GINORMOUS tuna, tuna that could easily eat me and then have my aunt for dessert. And then probably a small child as a belated appetizer. I imagined all the tuna rolls a single fish could make- infinite tuna rolls! Which brings me back to the sushi. The sushi & sashimi at the market were AMAZING. The fish was just caught that morning and was fresh, sweet and such a vibrant color. The only thing that I wasn't wild about was the wasabi that was mixed into the rice. I kept crying and my nose burned most uncomfortably whenever I stumbled upon a wasabi bomb. But my sinuses were delightfully cleared by the end of the meal. Silver lining!

2. Okonomiyaki. n. A Japanese savory pancake containing a variety of ingredients (ours had cabbage, egg, onions, noodles, & seafood). The name is derived from the word okonomi, meaning "what you like" or "what you want", and yaki meaning "grilled" or "cooked." SO GOOD. My Auntie went absolutely crazy over this dish and was like a kid at Christmas, glowing with glee and anticipation, when we went to a restaurant that specially served it in Hiroshima. If you're unfamiliar with my big food rule, here it is: I cannot eat/have great difficulty eating foods that resemble what they were when alive, eg. squid, octopus. But! I was able to eat BOTH in okonomiyaki, largely because they were hidden away in the pancake layers. They tasted okay, but I don't think I was really missing out on much during my regular non-squid-&-octopus eating days. But the okonomiyaki over all was delicious and I would eat it forever.

3. Ramen. I had both miso & soy sauce based ramen, and loved both! I did like the miso more, though. It was creamier and not nearly as salty. I think though, more than I enjoyed my noodles, I enjoyed watching locals eat ramen. Everyone in Japan must have throats lined with steel or must have lost all sensory nerves in their throats & mouths because they devoured this stuff in seconds. Seconds. I watched with fascination as businessmen sat, lifted gigantic bowls to their mouths and just continuously shoveled down boiling hot noodles and soup in a dizzy blur. They'd be done in less than 10 minutes. It was really quite impressive! I wanted to high five them, or flash them a peace sign, but something told me that wasn't kosher.

4. Fried mochi. n. Japanese cake made of glutinous rice pounded into paste and molded into shape. I had only ever had mochi with icecream before Japan, so fried mochi was something new. And I became addicted. The ones I ate most often were rolled into balls and put on skewers. Some were topped with red bean paste, others with powdered sugar, some were tempura-ized... all delicious!

5. Bento meals. They usually consist of rice, vegetables, & a meat dish, but fancy-shmancy ones may also include soup and salad. But it's the presentation
(observe exhibit a & exhibit b) & the preparation of them that makes them so awesome. At the restaurants, I was first struck by the style of ordering- we paid and punched our orders into a vending machine outside the doors. Efficient and less human interaction- very Japanese. Going inside, the restos usually have just one long table that wraps around the kitchen area. Sitting down, we were immediately served water, soup & salad. Surprised by the quickness I looked up to thank the servers and was startled to find one person working. Just one person. Looking down and around the table I counted 7 customers, not including the 4 of us and another 2 coming in. The server amazingly and successfully served everyone! He seemed to glide between the meat grill, the rice cooker, the water pitcher, the vegetable steamer, the salad crisper, the dish washer... I leaned over the counter a bit to check if he was wearing roller skates or something. Nope. Just him. And his SUPERHUMAN SERVING ABILITIES.

6. Takoyaki. n. Literally fried or grilled octopus; a popular Japanese dumpling made of batter, diced or whole baby octopus, tempura scraps, pickled ginger, and green onion, topped with okonomiyaki sauce, ponzu, mayonnaise, green laver, and katsuobushi (fish shavings). Yea. We ate this A LOT.

And that about sums up the food highlights. And I should probably get to bed. I'm off again to Negros Island tomorrow afternoon! Good night, world! Infinitelove!

แล้วพบกันใหม่, ราชอาณาจักรไทย!

*See you later, Thailand!

I WILL return to Thailand. That isn't a question. The only question really is when. I've already started looking into English teaching programs, and I plan on setting aside a percentage of my income (once I get a job- eee!) for another visit to the Elephant Nature Park, this time for at least a week. Oh man, I'm getting so happy and excited just thinking about it! So yes, Thailand, I will see you later, hopefully in 2013!

But I'll finish up writing about my last day in Bangkok. (And then I'll finally get to Japan. Hopefully. Maybe? Ehhhh?) So my last day started out much like my first- eyes blurry from lack of sleep, and feeling disoriented from the traveling. Awesome! I sat in Chatuchak park for a while to collect myself, reading, writing & people watching. Joggers, children feeding pigeons, grandmas carrying baskets of produce to the nearby market, gorgeous trannies sashaying in their high pumps and talking about their evenings in alarmingly low voices... Yea, just another morning in the park.

I ventured over again to the market, wanting to see it in the day time. The bustling crowds, blaring music & noisy, smokey bar scene was replaced by vegetable & fruit carts and a quiet hum of early morning activity. I preferred this atmosphere over its nighttime counterpart. I meandered around, stopping every now and then to chat with locals. It was a simple and calm way to start the day.

In heavy contrast to this, afterward, I headed to Siam square. Siam square is a retail wonderland of malls & shopping galore in a busier part of the city. After the quiet, quaintness of the morning market, I was overwhelmed by the frenzied consumerism and upon arrival immediately sought shelter in a small coffee shop. With my thai iced tea (always delicious!), I sat next to a window to write more postcards and to people watch. There really does seem to be a skip in the Thai step. I could detect a general feeling of relaxed contentment not only in their faces, which seem to always be smiling or laughing, but in their body language. They walk with arms linked or holding hands, shoulders are relaxed, step paces are even & unhurried... They all just seem to lightly flow and weave on the sidewalk. It was amazing to observe such mellow and carefree energy in the streets, especially after seeing the craze of Tokyo and after living in fast-paced New York.

Finally leaving my safe haven, I got on a bus and headed to the Phra Nakhon district, a more historical part of town near the Chao Phraya River. Along this river are Bangkok's jewels and main attractions. With my unfortunately limited time, I only got to see three: Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang (the Grand Palace) & Wat Po (Temple of the Reclining Buddha).

I first stopped in Wat Pho. After getting briefly distracted by an adorable kitten who was playing along the temple's outside wall & rooftops, I took off my shoes and entered the main hall. (Because I was mistaken for Thai, I was led to a different entrance and didn't have to pay! Again! YES!) My admitted first thought was: "Wow, that's a really big nipple." Not too classy. But! My following thoughts were much more appropriate and appreciative of the beauty and awe in front of me. The walls were decorated in repeating designs of lotus flowers & swirling shapes. Echoing throughout the chamber was the sound of coins dropping & ringing in metal donation basins that lined the walls. The Reclining Buddha was enormous, measuring 46 meters in length & 15 meters in height. It was covered in brilliant gold plating from head to toe, the only exceptions being gorgeous mother of pearl on the eyes & on the soles of the feet. The feet featured intricate carvings of a spiral design on the toes and 108 propitious images on the soles. I don't think I've ever stared at someone's feet for so long. Well, maybe my own during awkward moments. So I guess I've never stared in awe at somebody's feet for so long.

Feeling the pull of the river, I left Wat Pho and walked towards the piers. Turning down a random street I found myself in a strip of stalls selling all manners of seafood- dried squid, fresh fish, fish balls, shrimp kabobs... Craving, of all things in this particular market, something sweet, I bought icecream from an adorable vendor with crinkly eyes & a ready smile. He topped the vanilla scoops with coconut jelly, chopped nuts & evaporated milk. It was easily the best 10 baht I had spent that day! I kept walking along the market pier, happily eating my icecream when I saw a sign advertising ferry rides. Why not? Down a series of planks, across a wooden & decaying platform, I hopped onto a boat and headed down the river to lord knows where. The water was energetic, but not in a dangerous way. The waves seemed playful, nudging and rocking the boat. I stood at the edge and watched the banks & moving scenery, loving the water.


Immediately catching my eye on the opposite bank was Wat Arun, which was by great chance where the boat ended up stopping. From afar it was impressive- a prang (Khmer-style tower) in the distance surrounded by 4 smaller prangs at the corners. Up close it was beautiful enough to make even the most heartless, stoic & passive person weep. Oceans. Forever. Once again, thinking I was Thai, the guard let me in for free. (This whole we-think-you're-Thai-so-here's-something-for-free thing never got old!) Every surface of the prangs were covered with giant mosaics of sculptures, porcelain pieces, seashells & colored stones embedded in the rock in intricate and repetitive designs. I climbed up steep steps that led to two terraces. On the topmost terrace, the view was breathtaking. It was a clear & breezy day and the sun was starting to set, bathing everything in a warm, orange glow. Surrounding the temple below were various buildings, old & traditionally built. The sun glinted off their tiled roofs and created a golden ribbon that snaked along the tops and into the horizon. Further beyond, I could see the shining roofs & spires of temples peeking through the seemingly endless urban sprawl. The voices of monks chanting & the sound of tinkling bells created a sweet hum of music and I suddenly became conscious of my breath, wondering if the monks below could hear my exhales in the serene quiet. It was at that moment that I knew that I would come back to Thailand. If not to explore & experience what I had not yet explored & experienced, then to relive this moment, because it was one of the greatest moments of my life. It was simple but sacred & I am so thankful that I got to experience it!

And that is how I ended my first trip to Thailand. I cannot wait for the next! I truly am a person bewitched & infatuated! Thailand, you RULE.