Please stick to the rivers and the lakes like you used to! That's right, I just referenced a TLC song. Whu-whaaaaat! It was just too appropriate because it mentions waterfalls, which I will write about to finish off Dumaguete!
So, continuing from my last post... before leaving the lakes, Sam & I stumbled into another traveler named Charina. Charina is a cheerful & bubbly Filipina-Canadian that has been traveling for the past 10 months all over the world- super cool. We chatted amiably for a spell & parted ways after exchanging contact info and promising to meet up later for dinner & drinks.
Sam & I continued on to Casaroro Falls, in the neighboring town Valencia. I thought it darling. It was heavily shaded by many trees, and was much quieter than Dumaguete, with more pedestrians than tricycle taxis. We flagged down two habal habals (carpooling may have been better for the environment but... it really wasn't that comfortable, particularly with the bumpy road) and sped off towards the mountains. This ride was positively TERRIFYING. And painful. It's a wonder that I didn't score tons of bruises on my poor butt. It was REAL off-road motorbiking, and I felt extremely exposed & vulnerable with my shorts, sandals and un-helmet-ed head. It was with great thankfulness, 20 minutes later, that we dismounted, laughing at how ridiculously uncomfortable the ride had been.
To get to the waterfall, we walked down about 370 concrete steps that zigged & zagged, following a natural slope deep into a valley. As we got lower, the trees became more densely packed, creating a tightly woven canopy. In the darker lighting, the shades of green & brown were bolder & deeper and I felt transported to another world entirely. Finally getting to the bottom, several hundred feet below, the path continued along a stream, and we traced it to its source. The waterfall was BREATHTAKING. Wanting to get a closer look, we abandoned the path and navigated through moss-covered stones & gravel into the stream. We sat on a rock in the middle of the lazy current and stared, amazed by nature. Upon Sam's suggestion, I let my eyes start at the top of the fall & descend with the water- it was hypnotizing and I suggest you try it! A soft mist hung in the air, and my ears were filled with the sound of rushing water. I dipped my feet in, and for the second time that day wished desperately that I knew how to swim.
When we got back to Dumaguete, I took Sam to Sans Rival Bakery, as she had a sweet tooth to rival mine (which is saying something). I went to Sans Rival at least once a day, every day. Yes, it was THAT good. The servers probably thought I was the biggest & saddest fatty ever because I usually sat alone in the front window, writing & eating at least three different pastries and/or cake slices. Well, I wouldn't argue with them over being the biggest fatty, but I was NEVER sad. Bina + sweets = THE HAPPIEST. And I was even happier to spread this love of desserts to Sam, who was very appreciative. We allowed ourselves to indulge in a few yums (I had a slice of concorde cake & a chocolate chip cheesecake cupcake- I DIED), justifying the consumption by recalling all the exercise & activity we'd done that day.
After dessert, we got dinner & drinks with Charina. (And by the way, I decided that eating dessert first is how I will live from now on!) We went to a place called the Blue Monkey Grill, popular with locals & tourists alike. Grabbing a picnic table outside, we chatted about our travels and lives over Filipino food & beers. It's amazing how easily conversation flows between fellow travelers. You're strangers to each other and yet you never seem to hit the awkward/shy/over-polite stage of getting-to-know-you that comes standard with most new relationships. You just kind of jump right in, and usually the conversation will feel the way it does between old friends, catching up after a long separation. I absolutely love and treasure these conversations & relationships, no matter how temporary and short they are. They're always so lovely and remind me that good people can always be found everywhere.
The rest of my stay was pretty low key, full of beach-bumming, shell-searching, horizon-watching, cake-eating, park-reading, not-sleeping, etc. Oh! Except for a huge parade that I got swept into! Everyone wore brightly colored costumes & danced to sweet percussion beats. The streets were filled with people, all laughing & clapping & swaying with the performers. It was awesome to see Dumaguete so lively & excited about their culture!
So yes, Dumaguete was rad. And I will totally go back there if I ever get the chance. And I will eat more cake.
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