Monday, November 15, 2010

แล้วพบกันใหม่, ราชอาณาจักรไทย!

*See you later, Thailand!

I WILL return to Thailand. That isn't a question. The only question really is when. I've already started looking into English teaching programs, and I plan on setting aside a percentage of my income (once I get a job- eee!) for another visit to the Elephant Nature Park, this time for at least a week. Oh man, I'm getting so happy and excited just thinking about it! So yes, Thailand, I will see you later, hopefully in 2013!

But I'll finish up writing about my last day in Bangkok. (And then I'll finally get to Japan. Hopefully. Maybe? Ehhhh?) So my last day started out much like my first- eyes blurry from lack of sleep, and feeling disoriented from the traveling. Awesome! I sat in Chatuchak park for a while to collect myself, reading, writing & people watching. Joggers, children feeding pigeons, grandmas carrying baskets of produce to the nearby market, gorgeous trannies sashaying in their high pumps and talking about their evenings in alarmingly low voices... Yea, just another morning in the park.

I ventured over again to the market, wanting to see it in the day time. The bustling crowds, blaring music & noisy, smokey bar scene was replaced by vegetable & fruit carts and a quiet hum of early morning activity. I preferred this atmosphere over its nighttime counterpart. I meandered around, stopping every now and then to chat with locals. It was a simple and calm way to start the day.

In heavy contrast to this, afterward, I headed to Siam square. Siam square is a retail wonderland of malls & shopping galore in a busier part of the city. After the quiet, quaintness of the morning market, I was overwhelmed by the frenzied consumerism and upon arrival immediately sought shelter in a small coffee shop. With my thai iced tea (always delicious!), I sat next to a window to write more postcards and to people watch. There really does seem to be a skip in the Thai step. I could detect a general feeling of relaxed contentment not only in their faces, which seem to always be smiling or laughing, but in their body language. They walk with arms linked or holding hands, shoulders are relaxed, step paces are even & unhurried... They all just seem to lightly flow and weave on the sidewalk. It was amazing to observe such mellow and carefree energy in the streets, especially after seeing the craze of Tokyo and after living in fast-paced New York.

Finally leaving my safe haven, I got on a bus and headed to the Phra Nakhon district, a more historical part of town near the Chao Phraya River. Along this river are Bangkok's jewels and main attractions. With my unfortunately limited time, I only got to see three: Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang (the Grand Palace) & Wat Po (Temple of the Reclining Buddha).

I first stopped in Wat Pho. After getting briefly distracted by an adorable kitten who was playing along the temple's outside wall & rooftops, I took off my shoes and entered the main hall. (Because I was mistaken for Thai, I was led to a different entrance and didn't have to pay! Again! YES!) My admitted first thought was: "Wow, that's a really big nipple." Not too classy. But! My following thoughts were much more appropriate and appreciative of the beauty and awe in front of me. The walls were decorated in repeating designs of lotus flowers & swirling shapes. Echoing throughout the chamber was the sound of coins dropping & ringing in metal donation basins that lined the walls. The Reclining Buddha was enormous, measuring 46 meters in length & 15 meters in height. It was covered in brilliant gold plating from head to toe, the only exceptions being gorgeous mother of pearl on the eyes & on the soles of the feet. The feet featured intricate carvings of a spiral design on the toes and 108 propitious images on the soles. I don't think I've ever stared at someone's feet for so long. Well, maybe my own during awkward moments. So I guess I've never stared in awe at somebody's feet for so long.

Feeling the pull of the river, I left Wat Pho and walked towards the piers. Turning down a random street I found myself in a strip of stalls selling all manners of seafood- dried squid, fresh fish, fish balls, shrimp kabobs... Craving, of all things in this particular market, something sweet, I bought icecream from an adorable vendor with crinkly eyes & a ready smile. He topped the vanilla scoops with coconut jelly, chopped nuts & evaporated milk. It was easily the best 10 baht I had spent that day! I kept walking along the market pier, happily eating my icecream when I saw a sign advertising ferry rides. Why not? Down a series of planks, across a wooden & decaying platform, I hopped onto a boat and headed down the river to lord knows where. The water was energetic, but not in a dangerous way. The waves seemed playful, nudging and rocking the boat. I stood at the edge and watched the banks & moving scenery, loving the water.


Immediately catching my eye on the opposite bank was Wat Arun, which was by great chance where the boat ended up stopping. From afar it was impressive- a prang (Khmer-style tower) in the distance surrounded by 4 smaller prangs at the corners. Up close it was beautiful enough to make even the most heartless, stoic & passive person weep. Oceans. Forever. Once again, thinking I was Thai, the guard let me in for free. (This whole we-think-you're-Thai-so-here's-something-for-free thing never got old!) Every surface of the prangs were covered with giant mosaics of sculptures, porcelain pieces, seashells & colored stones embedded in the rock in intricate and repetitive designs. I climbed up steep steps that led to two terraces. On the topmost terrace, the view was breathtaking. It was a clear & breezy day and the sun was starting to set, bathing everything in a warm, orange glow. Surrounding the temple below were various buildings, old & traditionally built. The sun glinted off their tiled roofs and created a golden ribbon that snaked along the tops and into the horizon. Further beyond, I could see the shining roofs & spires of temples peeking through the seemingly endless urban sprawl. The voices of monks chanting & the sound of tinkling bells created a sweet hum of music and I suddenly became conscious of my breath, wondering if the monks below could hear my exhales in the serene quiet. It was at that moment that I knew that I would come back to Thailand. If not to explore & experience what I had not yet explored & experienced, then to relive this moment, because it was one of the greatest moments of my life. It was simple but sacred & I am so thankful that I got to experience it!

And that is how I ended my first trip to Thailand. I cannot wait for the next! I truly am a person bewitched & infatuated! Thailand, you RULE.

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